3D printing is different. Instead, 3D printing builds parts up from scratch, by either depositing melted materials, or solidifying or melting resins or powders to form this part.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rather than chipping extra material off, 3D printers deposit only the exact amount of material required \u2014 leaving minimal waste and saving money on excess material. For this reason, 3D printing is also known as additive manufacturing: it adds to create a part, rather than removing bits from a larger block. For plastics, this is significantly better for the environment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 3D printed parts are created three-dimensionally by printing tiny horizontal layers of material, layer-by-layer, on top of each other to gradually create a larger part. Each layer may be as small as 0.01mm tall — so hundreds of layers may be required to create the part. Budget 3D printers under $500<\/a> typically offer up to either 0.1mm or 0.05mm minimum layer heights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To create precise and accurate details, such as diagonal indents or embossings or embedded text, smaller layer heights are used. But for simple geometries like cubes, large layer heights can be used with no loss of quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n TLDR: What you\u2019ll need:<\/b><\/p>\n\n\n\n Additive manufacturing is possible because the 3D printer follows precise instructions coded in the 3D printer file<\/a> \u2014 usually an STL file, but sometimes an OBJ or GCODE \u2014 determining which areas to print material in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Therefore, to print you\u2019ll first need a 3D file, which you can either design yourself on a number of different CAD software or free 3D modeling software tools, or download online on a special STL file hosting repository.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once you have this file, you\u2019ll need a 3D slicer to import the file into. A 3D slicer does as the name suggests \u2014 slices the file into tiny layers. Higher resolution 3D printers<\/a> are capable of more accurate parts with lower layer sizes, and usually come at a higher cost, but even cheap 3D printers nowadays offer good accuracy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once you have resized your model to the size you want to print (most 3D slicers like Cura will tell you how much material and time you current model\u2019s size will take to print), you simply slice the model, and then either export the sliced file on to a USB or SD card and plug it into your printer, or print remotely via WiFi if your printer has this capability. Cura has presets for dozens of 3D printers, making it super easy to get set up and print without much experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are several different 3D printing technologies<\/a>, each designed for different materials, techniques, and with different advantages and disadvantages. Explaining the nuances of every type would take too long, so we will explain the basics, with optional links to our in-depth descriptions of each technology for those who want to find out more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The main two types of 3D printers used by hobbyists and makers at home are FDM 3D printers and resin 3D printers. For plastics, much rapid prototyping is done on SLS 3D printers, though hobbyists will find these expensive and complex.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The simplest to use, set up, cheapest, and most accessible 3D printers, FDM 3D printers are the printer of choice for most makers looking for a low stress, fun printing environment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n They use plastic filaments, long thin tubes of plastic wrapped round a spool, which is melted by a hot end in the printer\u2019s extruder. Once melted, the plastic is deposited out of the nozzle onto the print bed, layer-by-layer, to create the finished part. If you have ever iced a cake using a piping bag, this may sound similar. FDM 3D printers deposit layers of the melted plastic like you would icing on top of a cake, and then once one layer is done, rise up one layer height, as you may do when icing a tall swirl. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n FDM printers are cheap, starting at around $200, and running costs are also low, with PLA filament<\/a> starting at around $20 per kilo. They often come as DIY 3D printers<\/a> you need to assemble yourself, though some are plug’n’play — just plug them in and they’re ready to go.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The materials are not irritant on skin, and overall these are probably the safest printers to have, especially if you have kids around, as only the heated bed and hot end get hot, and can be kept away from prying hands with an enclosure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are dozens of different 3D printer filaments. Each have different melting points and characteristics, for example ABS<\/a> will warp and crack if you do not use a heated bed and heated chamber, whereas PLA is fine without either. We explain all these differences in our 3D printer filament guide<\/a>, but your 3D slicer will also have some pre-sets for each type of filament.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A few years ago resin printers started at several thousand dollars, but new low cost LCD 3D printers by brands like Anycubic and Elegoo have brought prices down to $200 and below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Resin 3D printers include SLA, DLP and LCD printers, all of which use light to cure resin, but each differ slightly. If you\u2019re a hobbyist maker, you\u2019ll probably be using an LCD printer. SLA was the first technology invented, way back in the late 1980s by Chuck Hull. DLP, and especially LCD, are newer offshoots seen on lower priced printers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n These printers use resin vats to hold liquid resin, and use a projector, UV laser or LCD screen to selectively cure resin and form solid parts, one layer at a time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Resin printers are generally faster, much more accurate than FDM printers, and create parts with far smoother surface finishes and crisper edges. Though stats may show similar layer heights, or Z-resolutions, between FDM and resin printers, resin parts are noticeably better quality, with more precise X and Y resolutions. For this reason, resin printers are often used to make wax molds for 3D printed jewelry<\/a> casting, and also for hearing aids and dental uses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The resins however are more expensive, the printers are more complex, and some resins can be irritant \u2014 so more stringent safety precautions should be taken. You\u2019re generally more restricted with the types of materials you can use than with FDM printing, and parts will degrade if left out in the sun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Brand new beginners to 3D printing would therefore be better off going with an FDM printer to learn the ropes, before diving into the deeper end with a resin printer. But resin printers offer accuracies and surface finishes far beyond FDM. You can check out our article on is a 3D printer hard to use & learn<\/a> for more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This is debated, based on how you define \u2018inventing\u2019. Academic articles describing a then-nonexistent method of creating parts layer-by-layer have been published since the 1970s. In 1981, Hideo Kodama published a paper discussing a \u2018rapid prototyping<\/a>\u2019 technique, and in 1984, three French engineers applied for a patent for the stereolithography process. However, they dropped the application as they felt there wasn\u2019t any money in it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n American Chuck Hull filed the patents for stereolithography<\/a> shortly after, was granted them in 1986, and commercialized the tech, founding 3D Systems. As of January 2021, 3D Systems is worth $1.3bn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Chuck Hull is considered the father of 3D printing, and the first to sell a working 3D printer over 30 years ago. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The first uses for 3D printers were mostly testing new prototypes for car parts and iterating and making small improvements based on these test parts. However, since then, 3D printing has advanced to have huge impact on a wide variety of industries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The following are some industries 3D printing is improving and changing. Click any of the links below to be taken to our feature stories we have covered on 3D printing\u2019s impact in the industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To find out more, check out:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"3d](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/3D-printing-process.jpg\")
The 3D printing process<\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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![\"program](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Program-to-design-3D-prints.jpg\")
![\"cura](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Cura-3D-Slicer.jpg\")
Different types of 3D printing<\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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FDM 3D printers<\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"fdm](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/FDM-printers.jpg\")
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Resin 3D printers<\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
![\"resin](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Resin-printing.jpg\")
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Other types of 3D printer:<\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Who invented 3D printing?<\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Chuck-Hull.jpg\")
3D printing uses and applications<\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Advantages and disadvantages of 3D printing<\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
3D printing advantages<\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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3D printing disadvantages<\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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