Extruder Not Extruding\/Filament Not Feeding Properly – Causes and How to Fix<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n- Extrusion Path\/Nozzle Clogged<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Damaged PTFE Tube<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Bowden Tube Issues<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Extruder Not Primed<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Incorrect Print Temperature<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Damaged, Dirty, or Poor Quality Filament<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Nozzle Is Too Close to the Bed<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Worn-Out Drive Gear<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Incorrect Tension<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Extruder Motor and Feeder Issues<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/circle-wavy-question-duotone.svg\" "\\"circle-wavy-question-duotone\\"\/")
<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\nWhy Is Filament Not Coming Out of the Nozzle?<\/h2>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
If filament is not coming out of a 3D printer nozzle, it\u2019s likely that the nozzle has a blockage or clog. This problem arises due to a combination of natural nozzle wear and tear, poor quality filament, too high print temperature, or damage to components like the PTFE tube and extruder.<\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n
Beyond these common culprits, there are several other reasons why the filament isn\u2019t feeding properly through the nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We\u2019ll cover these and more below, providing fixes along the way to help you solve the problem in no time at all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Extrusion Path\/Nozzle Clogged<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"clog](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Clogged-Nozzle.jpg\")
A clog removed from the nozzle. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The nozzle is clogged. You can generally check this by visually inspecting the nozzle for a build up of dry filament blocking the orifice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
There are several reasons why the nozzle could be clogged. Issues like printing at the wrong temperature are common, as are issues like a damaged PTFE tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Another common culprit is leaving filament in the printer when it isn\u2019t in use and failing to purge the hot end and nozzle of filament after a print. Left to sit, the hot filament hardens, latching to the inside of the nozzle. Dirt and other debris inside the nozzle can also exacerbate clogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Clear out the nozzle of any clogs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Most 3D printers come with a tool kit that includes a thin metallic rod designed exactly for this purpose. A wire brush works equally well. Break up the clogged filament, then heat up the hot end to flush out the build up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After removing the clog, give your nozzle a thorough clean to remove any residual filament and accumulated dirt and grime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more<\/strong>: Nozzle clogged? How to fix it<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nDamaged PTFE Tube<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Clogged](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Clogged-Prusa-ptfe-tube.jpg\")
Clogged PTFE tube. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
A common sign of PTFE tube issues is nasty clogs and jamming issues, sometimes extending quite far into the PTFE tube on Bowden setups. On direct drive printers<\/a>, this tend to be concentrated on the PTFE tube inside the printhead assembly.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Most 3D printers include a shortcut of PTFE tubing leading in the hot end, even those with direct drive extruders. In Bowden style extruders, the tube extends all the way from the frame mounted extruder down into the hotend. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more:<\/strong> direct drive vs bowden extruders – pros and cons compared<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nIf this inner tube is worn or degraded, which tends to happen when poor quality tubing is heated above 260\u00b0C coupled with heat creep, it will cause jams and clogs as the filament tries to either pass through a tighter path or snags on the melted portions of the tubing, creating added friction that extruder simply can\u2019t contend with.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Additionally, if the PTFE tube has been cut at an angle or poorly installed, any gaps or overhangs are likely to lead to clogs sooner or later as the melted filament will leak out around the outside of the tube causing the inner diameter to deform and reduce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
There\u2019s only one long term solution to fixing a worn or damaged PTFE tube, and that\u2019s replacement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Fortunately, PTFE tubing is cheap and readily-available. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
We recommend spending a bit more on a Capricorn branded tube<\/a> as these are designed to sustain higher temperatures and are lubricated to ensure smooth filament feeding, which should help avoid the problem recurring in the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\nBowden Tube Issues<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Bowden](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Bowden-Tube-with-plastic-stuck-inside.jpg\")
Filament clogging the bowden tube. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
As with most issues linked to extrusion issues, the most common sign is that the filament isn\u2019t feeding properly even though the nozzle is clear. This tends to mean the filament getting stuck in the PTFE tubing<\/a> that runs from the extruder to the hotend.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanations:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- There\u2019s debris in the Bowden tube.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- The Bowden tube is worn or degraded. See the section above for more details.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- The path of Bowden tube features a tight bend that can cause the filament to get caught or jammed as it tries to round it on the way to the hotend. Consider a longer tube or straighten its path and reduce friction.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- The PTFE tube has been cut at an angle or poorly installed. Gaps or overhangs can lead to obstructions and clogs as the melted filament leaks out around the outside of the tube causing the inner diameter to deform and reduce.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A common issue with Bowden style extruders is when the tubing isn\u2019t pushed all the way into the hotend.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Replacement is your best bet here and if your extrusion path features tight corners, cutting a longer section of tubing from the extruder to the hot end. Bowden tubing is cheap and is a worthy investment. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"Capricorn](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Capricorn-bowden-tube.jpg\")
Capricorn tubing on an Ender 3. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWe recommend branded Capricorn tubing<\/a> for the best results. Good quality couplers can also make all the difference, so it\u2019s well worth spending a little more on a solid pair.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExtruder Not Primed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Extruder](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Extruder-priming.jpg\")
Extruder is priming when it prints a line at the edge of the print bed. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
More a temporary problem than a major issue like a blockage or filament not coming out of the nozzle at all, failing to prime the printer can cause the printer to not extrude enough filament for the first few lines of a print.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
When preparing a printer to load in filament, you often raise it to a high temperature, which causes the filament to ooze freely out of the nozzle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
When the printer has cooled down to a print-ready temperature (say, 190\u00b0C for PLA, for example), there\u2019ll likely be a delay before filament emerges from the nozzle as it plays catch up due to the large amount of filament extruded when the printer was at a high temperature. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This can cause a delay in the printer laying down the first layers, which can lead to botched prints.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
An easy fix is to prime the printer before beginning a print. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
You can do this by either dialing in a raft or skirt<\/a>, for example, to give the printer time to catch up. <\/p>\n\n\n\nAlternatively, you can do this by inputting G-code to lay down a set number of lines on the edges of the build plate away from where the print will sit before starting the print in earnest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Incorrect Print Temperature<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Better](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Better-ABS-print-after-raising-printing-temperature.jpg\")
Better print results with ABS filament after raising the print temperature to 260C. Source: Imgur<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The filament struggles to pass through the nozzle on its way to being deposited on the print surface. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A common sign of the print temperature being too low is under extrusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more<\/strong>: under extrusion problems in 3D printing – and how to fix it<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The filament is heating up to a sufficient temperature for it to melt enough to extrude and pass through the hotend as required. In extreme situations, the low temperature can cause the filament to solidify in the nozzle and cause a clog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Ensure the print temperature is suitably dialed for the type of filament you\u2019re using and according to manufacturer recommendation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This is generally done during the slicing process but can also be done on the fly via your printer\u2019s interface. From there, increase the temperature in small increments, around 5\u00b0C at a time, until you see improvements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here\u2019s a brief breakdown of the common temperature ranges for the most popular filament types:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- PLA<\/a><\/strong> – PLA requires a print temperature between 190\u00b0C and 230\u00b0C.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- ABS<\/a><\/strong> – Anywhere from 220\u00b0C to 250\u00b0C.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- PETG<\/a><\/strong> – Around 220\u00b0C to 230\u00b0C.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- TPU<\/a><\/strong> – Anywhere from 210\u00b0C to 230\u00b0C<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- HIPS\/PVA<\/strong> – HIPS\/PVA requires around 220\u00b0C-240\u00b0C<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Damaged, Dirty, or Poor Quality Filament<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Printed](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Printed-with-old-PLA.jpg\")
Printed using old PLA previously owned by another person. Solved by using a new spool of filament. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If you\u2019ve tried all the other fixes and you still have issues then it\u2019s likely due to something awry with the filament.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Dirty filament can cause added friction as it passes through the extruder path. The dirt and debris can also melt then stick to the inside of the hotend and nozzle further cranking up friction. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Enough friction and the extruder won\u2019t have enough torque to push the filament through enough for it to pass through the nozzle. Dirt can also cause the filament to jam and clog in the PTFE tubing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Damaged filament, whether through moisture or abrasions on the material itself caused by the extruder gear, can also affect proper extrusion. In many cases, the gear can strip the filament, which not only damages the filament but affects the gear’s ability to get a strong purchase on the material to correctly exercise the right amount of push and pull. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Poor quality filament can present a number of issues from incorrect diameters and poor quality formula that cause it to be brittle, easily snapping or jamming on the way to the hotend and nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Ensure your filament is free of dirt, moisture, and dust by storing it correctly in a sealed container when not in use. You can our recommendations in our guide to 3D printer filament storage<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWe also recommend spending a bit more on good quality filament. You can read our recommendations for every filament type in our full filament buyer’s guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nNozzle Is Too Close to the Bed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Nozzle](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Nozzle-is-too-close.jpg\")
Nozzle is too close, it is digging into the bed. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Filament is flowing correctly from the nozzle, but is being prevented from adhering to the bed correctly. A tell tale sign of a nozzle that’s too close to the bed is that the printer is having trouble depositing a consistent first layer<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Though 3D printing requires the nozzle to squish the filament onto the bed to a certain degree, too much can prevent filament coming out of the nozzle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
To fix a nozzle that\u2019s too close to the bed, recalibrate your Z-offset, raising higher above the bed, but not too high. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
We recommend the classic method of sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle then lowering the Z-offset until you feel a slight resistance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After doing this, run a Z-offset calibration test (such as this one from Thingiverse contributor zekettek<\/a>) and fine tune the height throughout the test until you have smooth, consistent, and even lines of extrusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWorn-Out Drive Gear<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Print](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Print-quality-differences-between-2-different-drive-gears.jpg\")
Print quality differences between old and new drive gears. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
A reliable sign that the drive gear is worn out is if filament is not coming out of the 3D printer nozzle or is struggling to make its way through the extrusion path consistently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
3D printers, like any machine, are prone to wear and tear. No component works quite as hard as the extruder drive gear and it’s possible that filament feeding issues stem from a gear that’s simply past its best. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Often, the gear teeth have worn away enough that they fail to latch onto the filament sufficiently to provide the force and pressure necessary to push and pull filament through the hotend and nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Replacement is the answer here. On budget printers, plastic-made extruders tend to have a shorter shelf life than metal extruders, so we recommend the latter if your budget can stretch that far.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more:<\/strong> our recommendations for buying a 3D printer nozzle<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nIncorrect Tension<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Before](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Before-and-after-belt-tightening.jpg\")
Print results before and after tightening the belts. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Filament is either not coming out of the nozzle or the flow rate is incorrect even though the rest of the printer is optimized as are slicer extrusion multiplier\/flow rates settings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Most 3D printers have a tension knob on the extruder that determines the grip, bite, or pressure the idler wheel exercises on the filament. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A solid grip is essential for the extruder to control the filament, but too much bite and it squash the filament causing issues when it comes to feeding the filament into the hotend, which results in filament loading complications.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
To fix incorrect ension, ensure the idler wheel tension is set correctly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Loosen it by no more than a turn at time until the problem resolves itself. If the problem persists, the gear and idler may be damaged and replacement may be needed (see the section below).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Extruder Motor and Feeder Issues<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Filament](\"https:\/\/www.3dsourced.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/11\/Filament-not-feeding-between-gears-Ender-3-v2.jpg\")
Filament was not feeding between the gears on Ender 3 V2. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Proper operation depends on your extruder being able to feed the correct amount of material at any given time. A stepper motor will start clicking when it is skipping steps. That is in the case of an extruder motor when the force required to push the filament further is higher than the motor\u2019s strength. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Deformed Filament<\/strong> – Remove the filament from the extruder and check how it looks. Is it deformed, as in no longer round but crushed so that its diameter is now wider than it should be? If so you might want to try to decrease the idler pressure on your feeder gear. Conversely, if the filament is not crushed, but just has a gouge taken out of it where the hob gear has repeatedly slipped, increasing the idler pressure may restore correct filament feeding.<\/p>\n\n\n\nToo Much Strain<\/strong> – This problem is made worse when you\u2019re trying to print something that requires a lot of retractions in a short amount of time. Try to reduce the amount of retractions or set your retracts to be less aggressive.<\/p>\n\n\n\nHow to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If the extruder isn\u2019t clicking, but still no filament is coming out of the nozzle it is very likely we have a problem right around the feeder part of the extruder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the motor is wildly turning back and forth even with no filament loaded, this could be a sign of a loose motor cable either at the board or the motor end, a broken cable or broken or loose pin in the connector. Or a failed motor. Or wrong cable configuration with leads swapped. If this happens, stop what the printer is doing immediately, let it cool down and power it off!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A broken wire on a stepper can easily destroy a driver chip by creating high voltage spikes as the stepper is connected and disconnected (the same damage can occur if you manually disconnect or reconnect a stepper motor while the printer is powered-up).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Didn’t find your specific 3D print issue in this guide? We have more guides here:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Common Causes and Solutions: Extruder Clicking\/Slipping<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Maximize Precision: 3D Printing Dimensional Accuracy Explained<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Experiencing Layer Shifting in Your 3D Prints? Here Are Ways To Fix Each Issue<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Help I’ve Tried Everything! How to Fix Filament Grinding<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 3D Printed Model Stuck On The Print Bed: Causes and Solutions<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- How To Calibrate E-Steps On Your 3D Printer Extruder<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\nWhy Is Filament Not Coming Out of the Nozzle?<\/h2>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
If filament is not coming out of a 3D printer nozzle, it\u2019s likely that the nozzle has a blockage or clog. This problem arises due to a combination of natural nozzle wear and tear, poor quality filament, too high print temperature, or damage to components like the PTFE tube and extruder.<\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n
Beyond these common culprits, there are several other reasons why the filament isn\u2019t feeding properly through the nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We\u2019ll cover these and more below, providing fixes along the way to help you solve the problem in no time at all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Extrusion Path\/Nozzle Clogged<\/h2>\n\n\n\nA clog removed from the nozzle. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The nozzle is clogged. You can generally check this by visually inspecting the nozzle for a build up of dry filament blocking the orifice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
There are several reasons why the nozzle could be clogged. Issues like printing at the wrong temperature are common, as are issues like a damaged PTFE tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Another common culprit is leaving filament in the printer when it isn\u2019t in use and failing to purge the hot end and nozzle of filament after a print. Left to sit, the hot filament hardens, latching to the inside of the nozzle. Dirt and other debris inside the nozzle can also exacerbate clogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Clear out the nozzle of any clogs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Most 3D printers come with a tool kit that includes a thin metallic rod designed exactly for this purpose. A wire brush works equally well. Break up the clogged filament, then heat up the hot end to flush out the build up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After removing the clog, give your nozzle a thorough clean to remove any residual filament and accumulated dirt and grime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more<\/strong>: Nozzle clogged? How to fix it<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nDamaged PTFE Tube<\/h2>\n\n\n\nClogged PTFE tube. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
A common sign of PTFE tube issues is nasty clogs and jamming issues, sometimes extending quite far into the PTFE tube on Bowden setups. On direct drive printers<\/a>, this tend to be concentrated on the PTFE tube inside the printhead assembly.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Most 3D printers include a shortcut of PTFE tubing leading in the hot end, even those with direct drive extruders. In Bowden style extruders, the tube extends all the way from the frame mounted extruder down into the hotend. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more:<\/strong> direct drive vs bowden extruders – pros and cons compared<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nIf this inner tube is worn or degraded, which tends to happen when poor quality tubing is heated above 260\u00b0C coupled with heat creep, it will cause jams and clogs as the filament tries to either pass through a tighter path or snags on the melted portions of the tubing, creating added friction that extruder simply can\u2019t contend with.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Additionally, if the PTFE tube has been cut at an angle or poorly installed, any gaps or overhangs are likely to lead to clogs sooner or later as the melted filament will leak out around the outside of the tube causing the inner diameter to deform and reduce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
There\u2019s only one long term solution to fixing a worn or damaged PTFE tube, and that\u2019s replacement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Fortunately, PTFE tubing is cheap and readily-available. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
We recommend spending a bit more on a Capricorn branded tube<\/a> as these are designed to sustain higher temperatures and are lubricated to ensure smooth filament feeding, which should help avoid the problem recurring in the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\nBowden Tube Issues<\/h2>\n\n\n\nFilament clogging the bowden tube. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
As with most issues linked to extrusion issues, the most common sign is that the filament isn\u2019t feeding properly even though the nozzle is clear. This tends to mean the filament getting stuck in the PTFE tubing<\/a> that runs from the extruder to the hotend.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanations:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- There\u2019s debris in the Bowden tube.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- The Bowden tube is worn or degraded. See the section above for more details.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- The path of Bowden tube features a tight bend that can cause the filament to get caught or jammed as it tries to round it on the way to the hotend. Consider a longer tube or straighten its path and reduce friction.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- The PTFE tube has been cut at an angle or poorly installed. Gaps or overhangs can lead to obstructions and clogs as the melted filament leaks out around the outside of the tube causing the inner diameter to deform and reduce.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A common issue with Bowden style extruders is when the tubing isn\u2019t pushed all the way into the hotend.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Replacement is your best bet here and if your extrusion path features tight corners, cutting a longer section of tubing from the extruder to the hot end. Bowden tubing is cheap and is a worthy investment. <\/p>\n\n\n\nCapricorn tubing on an Ender 3. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWe recommend branded Capricorn tubing<\/a> for the best results. Good quality couplers can also make all the difference, so it\u2019s well worth spending a little more on a solid pair.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExtruder Not Primed<\/h2>\n\n\n\nExtruder is priming when it prints a line at the edge of the print bed. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
More a temporary problem than a major issue like a blockage or filament not coming out of the nozzle at all, failing to prime the printer can cause the printer to not extrude enough filament for the first few lines of a print.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
When preparing a printer to load in filament, you often raise it to a high temperature, which causes the filament to ooze freely out of the nozzle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
When the printer has cooled down to a print-ready temperature (say, 190\u00b0C for PLA, for example), there\u2019ll likely be a delay before filament emerges from the nozzle as it plays catch up due to the large amount of filament extruded when the printer was at a high temperature. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This can cause a delay in the printer laying down the first layers, which can lead to botched prints.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
An easy fix is to prime the printer before beginning a print. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
You can do this by either dialing in a raft or skirt<\/a>, for example, to give the printer time to catch up. <\/p>\n\n\n\nAlternatively, you can do this by inputting G-code to lay down a set number of lines on the edges of the build plate away from where the print will sit before starting the print in earnest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Incorrect Print Temperature<\/h2>\n\n\n\nBetter print results with ABS filament after raising the print temperature to 260C. Source: Imgur<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The filament struggles to pass through the nozzle on its way to being deposited on the print surface. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A common sign of the print temperature being too low is under extrusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more<\/strong>: under extrusion problems in 3D printing – and how to fix it<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The filament is heating up to a sufficient temperature for it to melt enough to extrude and pass through the hotend as required. In extreme situations, the low temperature can cause the filament to solidify in the nozzle and cause a clog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Ensure the print temperature is suitably dialed for the type of filament you\u2019re using and according to manufacturer recommendation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This is generally done during the slicing process but can also be done on the fly via your printer\u2019s interface. From there, increase the temperature in small increments, around 5\u00b0C at a time, until you see improvements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here\u2019s a brief breakdown of the common temperature ranges for the most popular filament types:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- PLA<\/a><\/strong> – PLA requires a print temperature between 190\u00b0C and 230\u00b0C.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- ABS<\/a><\/strong> – Anywhere from 220\u00b0C to 250\u00b0C.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- PETG<\/a><\/strong> – Around 220\u00b0C to 230\u00b0C.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- TPU<\/a><\/strong> – Anywhere from 210\u00b0C to 230\u00b0C<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- HIPS\/PVA<\/strong> – HIPS\/PVA requires around 220\u00b0C-240\u00b0C<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Damaged, Dirty, or Poor Quality Filament<\/h2>\n\n\n\nPrinted using old PLA previously owned by another person. Solved by using a new spool of filament. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If you\u2019ve tried all the other fixes and you still have issues then it\u2019s likely due to something awry with the filament.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Dirty filament can cause added friction as it passes through the extruder path. The dirt and debris can also melt then stick to the inside of the hotend and nozzle further cranking up friction. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Enough friction and the extruder won\u2019t have enough torque to push the filament through enough for it to pass through the nozzle. Dirt can also cause the filament to jam and clog in the PTFE tubing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Damaged filament, whether through moisture or abrasions on the material itself caused by the extruder gear, can also affect proper extrusion. In many cases, the gear can strip the filament, which not only damages the filament but affects the gear’s ability to get a strong purchase on the material to correctly exercise the right amount of push and pull. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Poor quality filament can present a number of issues from incorrect diameters and poor quality formula that cause it to be brittle, easily snapping or jamming on the way to the hotend and nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Ensure your filament is free of dirt, moisture, and dust by storing it correctly in a sealed container when not in use. You can our recommendations in our guide to 3D printer filament storage<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWe also recommend spending a bit more on good quality filament. You can read our recommendations for every filament type in our full filament buyer’s guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nNozzle Is Too Close to the Bed<\/h2>\n\n\n\nNozzle is too close, it is digging into the bed. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Filament is flowing correctly from the nozzle, but is being prevented from adhering to the bed correctly. A tell tale sign of a nozzle that’s too close to the bed is that the printer is having trouble depositing a consistent first layer<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nExplanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Though 3D printing requires the nozzle to squish the filament onto the bed to a certain degree, too much can prevent filament coming out of the nozzle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
To fix a nozzle that\u2019s too close to the bed, recalibrate your Z-offset, raising higher above the bed, but not too high. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
We recommend the classic method of sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle then lowering the Z-offset until you feel a slight resistance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After doing this, run a Z-offset calibration test (such as this one from Thingiverse contributor zekettek<\/a>) and fine tune the height throughout the test until you have smooth, consistent, and even lines of extrusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWorn-Out Drive Gear<\/h2>\n\n\n\nPrint quality differences between old and new drive gears. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
A reliable sign that the drive gear is worn out is if filament is not coming out of the 3D printer nozzle or is struggling to make its way through the extrusion path consistently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
3D printers, like any machine, are prone to wear and tear. No component works quite as hard as the extruder drive gear and it’s possible that filament feeding issues stem from a gear that’s simply past its best. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Often, the gear teeth have worn away enough that they fail to latch onto the filament sufficiently to provide the force and pressure necessary to push and pull filament through the hotend and nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Replacement is the answer here. On budget printers, plastic-made extruders tend to have a shorter shelf life than metal extruders, so we recommend the latter if your budget can stretch that far.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more:<\/strong> our recommendations for buying a 3D printer nozzle<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nIncorrect Tension<\/h2>\n\n\n\nPrint results before and after tightening the belts. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Filament is either not coming out of the nozzle or the flow rate is incorrect even though the rest of the printer is optimized as are slicer extrusion multiplier\/flow rates settings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Most 3D printers have a tension knob on the extruder that determines the grip, bite, or pressure the idler wheel exercises on the filament. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A solid grip is essential for the extruder to control the filament, but too much bite and it squash the filament causing issues when it comes to feeding the filament into the hotend, which results in filament loading complications.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
To fix incorrect ension, ensure the idler wheel tension is set correctly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Loosen it by no more than a turn at time until the problem resolves itself. If the problem persists, the gear and idler may be damaged and replacement may be needed (see the section below).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Extruder Motor and Feeder Issues<\/h2>\n\n\n\nFilament was not feeding between the gears on Ender 3 V2. Source: Reddit<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSigns:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Proper operation depends on your extruder being able to feed the correct amount of material at any given time. A stepper motor will start clicking when it is skipping steps. That is in the case of an extruder motor when the force required to push the filament further is higher than the motor\u2019s strength. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Deformed Filament<\/strong> – Remove the filament from the extruder and check how it looks. Is it deformed, as in no longer round but crushed so that its diameter is now wider than it should be? If so you might want to try to decrease the idler pressure on your feeder gear. Conversely, if the filament is not crushed, but just has a gouge taken out of it where the hob gear has repeatedly slipped, increasing the idler pressure may restore correct filament feeding.<\/p>\n\n\n\nToo Much Strain<\/strong> – This problem is made worse when you\u2019re trying to print something that requires a lot of retractions in a short amount of time. Try to reduce the amount of retractions or set your retracts to be less aggressive.<\/p>\n\n\n\nHow to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If the extruder isn\u2019t clicking, but still no filament is coming out of the nozzle it is very likely we have a problem right around the feeder part of the extruder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the motor is wildly turning back and forth even with no filament loaded, this could be a sign of a loose motor cable either at the board or the motor end, a broken cable or broken or loose pin in the connector. Or a failed motor. Or wrong cable configuration with leads swapped. If this happens, stop what the printer is doing immediately, let it cool down and power it off!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A broken wire on a stepper can easily destroy a driver chip by creating high voltage spikes as the stepper is connected and disconnected (the same damage can occur if you manually disconnect or reconnect a stepper motor while the printer is powered-up).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Didn’t find your specific 3D print issue in this guide? We have more guides here:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- Common Causes and Solutions: Extruder Clicking\/Slipping<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Maximize Precision: 3D Printing Dimensional Accuracy Explained<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Experiencing Layer Shifting in Your 3D Prints? Here Are Ways To Fix Each Issue<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Help I’ve Tried Everything! How to Fix Filament Grinding<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 3D Printed Model Stuck On The Print Bed: Causes and Solutions<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- How To Calibrate E-Steps On Your 3D Printer Extruder<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The nozzle is clogged. You can generally check this by visually inspecting the nozzle for a build up of dry filament blocking the orifice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
There are several reasons why the nozzle could be clogged. Issues like printing at the wrong temperature are common, as are issues like a damaged PTFE tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Another common culprit is leaving filament in the printer when it isn\u2019t in use and failing to purge the hot end and nozzle of filament after a print. Left to sit, the hot filament hardens, latching to the inside of the nozzle. Dirt and other debris inside the nozzle can also exacerbate clogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Clear out the nozzle of any clogs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Most 3D printers come with a tool kit that includes a thin metallic rod designed exactly for this purpose. A wire brush works equally well. Break up the clogged filament, then heat up the hot end to flush out the build up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After removing the clog, give your nozzle a thorough clean to remove any residual filament and accumulated dirt and grime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Read more<\/strong>: Nozzle clogged? How to fix it<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A common sign of PTFE tube issues is nasty clogs and jamming issues, sometimes extending quite far into the PTFE tube on Bowden setups. On direct drive printers<\/a>, this tend to be concentrated on the PTFE tube inside the printhead assembly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Most 3D printers include a shortcut of PTFE tubing leading in the hot end, even those with direct drive extruders. In Bowden style extruders, the tube extends all the way from the frame mounted extruder down into the hotend. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Read more:<\/strong> direct drive vs bowden extruders – pros and cons compared<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n If this inner tube is worn or degraded, which tends to happen when poor quality tubing is heated above 260\u00b0C coupled with heat creep, it will cause jams and clogs as the filament tries to either pass through a tighter path or snags on the melted portions of the tubing, creating added friction that extruder simply can\u2019t contend with.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Additionally, if the PTFE tube has been cut at an angle or poorly installed, any gaps or overhangs are likely to lead to clogs sooner or later as the melted filament will leak out around the outside of the tube causing the inner diameter to deform and reduce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There\u2019s only one long term solution to fixing a worn or damaged PTFE tube, and that\u2019s replacement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Fortunately, PTFE tubing is cheap and readily-available. <\/p>\n\n\n\n We recommend spending a bit more on a Capricorn branded tube<\/a> as these are designed to sustain higher temperatures and are lubricated to ensure smooth filament feeding, which should help avoid the problem recurring in the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As with most issues linked to extrusion issues, the most common sign is that the filament isn\u2019t feeding properly even though the nozzle is clear. This tends to mean the filament getting stuck in the PTFE tubing<\/a> that runs from the extruder to the hotend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Replacement is your best bet here and if your extrusion path features tight corners, cutting a longer section of tubing from the extruder to the hot end. Bowden tubing is cheap and is a worthy investment. <\/p>\n\n\n\n We recommend branded Capricorn tubing<\/a> for the best results. Good quality couplers can also make all the difference, so it\u2019s well worth spending a little more on a solid pair.<\/p>\n\n\n\n More a temporary problem than a major issue like a blockage or filament not coming out of the nozzle at all, failing to prime the printer can cause the printer to not extrude enough filament for the first few lines of a print.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When preparing a printer to load in filament, you often raise it to a high temperature, which causes the filament to ooze freely out of the nozzle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n When the printer has cooled down to a print-ready temperature (say, 190\u00b0C for PLA, for example), there\u2019ll likely be a delay before filament emerges from the nozzle as it plays catch up due to the large amount of filament extruded when the printer was at a high temperature. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This can cause a delay in the printer laying down the first layers, which can lead to botched prints.<\/p>\n\n\n\n An easy fix is to prime the printer before beginning a print. <\/p>\n\n\n\n You can do this by either dialing in a raft or skirt<\/a>, for example, to give the printer time to catch up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Alternatively, you can do this by inputting G-code to lay down a set number of lines on the edges of the build plate away from where the print will sit before starting the print in earnest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The filament struggles to pass through the nozzle on its way to being deposited on the print surface. <\/p>\n\n\n\n A common sign of the print temperature being too low is under extrusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Read more<\/strong>: under extrusion problems in 3D printing – and how to fix it<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n The filament is heating up to a sufficient temperature for it to melt enough to extrude and pass through the hotend as required. In extreme situations, the low temperature can cause the filament to solidify in the nozzle and cause a clog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ensure the print temperature is suitably dialed for the type of filament you\u2019re using and according to manufacturer recommendation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This is generally done during the slicing process but can also be done on the fly via your printer\u2019s interface. From there, increase the temperature in small increments, around 5\u00b0C at a time, until you see improvements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Here\u2019s a brief breakdown of the common temperature ranges for the most popular filament types:<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you\u2019ve tried all the other fixes and you still have issues then it\u2019s likely due to something awry with the filament.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dirty filament can cause added friction as it passes through the extruder path. The dirt and debris can also melt then stick to the inside of the hotend and nozzle further cranking up friction. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Enough friction and the extruder won\u2019t have enough torque to push the filament through enough for it to pass through the nozzle. Dirt can also cause the filament to jam and clog in the PTFE tubing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Damaged filament, whether through moisture or abrasions on the material itself caused by the extruder gear, can also affect proper extrusion. In many cases, the gear can strip the filament, which not only damages the filament but affects the gear’s ability to get a strong purchase on the material to correctly exercise the right amount of push and pull. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Poor quality filament can present a number of issues from incorrect diameters and poor quality formula that cause it to be brittle, easily snapping or jamming on the way to the hotend and nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ensure your filament is free of dirt, moisture, and dust by storing it correctly in a sealed container when not in use. You can our recommendations in our guide to 3D printer filament storage<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We also recommend spending a bit more on good quality filament. You can read our recommendations for every filament type in our full filament buyer’s guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Filament is flowing correctly from the nozzle, but is being prevented from adhering to the bed correctly. A tell tale sign of a nozzle that’s too close to the bed is that the printer is having trouble depositing a consistent first layer<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Though 3D printing requires the nozzle to squish the filament onto the bed to a certain degree, too much can prevent filament coming out of the nozzle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n To fix a nozzle that\u2019s too close to the bed, recalibrate your Z-offset, raising higher above the bed, but not too high. <\/p>\n\n\n\n We recommend the classic method of sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle then lowering the Z-offset until you feel a slight resistance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n After doing this, run a Z-offset calibration test (such as this one from Thingiverse contributor zekettek<\/a>) and fine tune the height throughout the test until you have smooth, consistent, and even lines of extrusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A reliable sign that the drive gear is worn out is if filament is not coming out of the 3D printer nozzle or is struggling to make its way through the extrusion path consistently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 3D printers, like any machine, are prone to wear and tear. No component works quite as hard as the extruder drive gear and it’s possible that filament feeding issues stem from a gear that’s simply past its best. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Often, the gear teeth have worn away enough that they fail to latch onto the filament sufficiently to provide the force and pressure necessary to push and pull filament through the hotend and nozzle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Replacement is the answer here. On budget printers, plastic-made extruders tend to have a shorter shelf life than metal extruders, so we recommend the latter if your budget can stretch that far.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Read more:<\/strong> our recommendations for buying a 3D printer nozzle<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Filament is either not coming out of the nozzle or the flow rate is incorrect even though the rest of the printer is optimized as are slicer extrusion multiplier\/flow rates settings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Most 3D printers have a tension knob on the extruder that determines the grip, bite, or pressure the idler wheel exercises on the filament. <\/p>\n\n\n\n A solid grip is essential for the extruder to control the filament, but too much bite and it squash the filament causing issues when it comes to feeding the filament into the hotend, which results in filament loading complications.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To fix incorrect ension, ensure the idler wheel tension is set correctly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Loosen it by no more than a turn at time until the problem resolves itself. If the problem persists, the gear and idler may be damaged and replacement may be needed (see the section below).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Proper operation depends on your extruder being able to feed the correct amount of material at any given time. A stepper motor will start clicking when it is skipping steps. That is in the case of an extruder motor when the force required to push the filament further is higher than the motor\u2019s strength. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Deformed Filament<\/strong> – Remove the filament from the extruder and check how it looks. Is it deformed, as in no longer round but crushed so that its diameter is now wider than it should be? If so you might want to try to decrease the idler pressure on your feeder gear. Conversely, if the filament is not crushed, but just has a gouge taken out of it where the hob gear has repeatedly slipped, increasing the idler pressure may restore correct filament feeding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Too Much Strain<\/strong> – This problem is made worse when you\u2019re trying to print something that requires a lot of retractions in a short amount of time. Try to reduce the amount of retractions or set your retracts to be less aggressive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If the extruder isn\u2019t clicking, but still no filament is coming out of the nozzle it is very likely we have a problem right around the feeder part of the extruder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If the motor is wildly turning back and forth even with no filament loaded, this could be a sign of a loose motor cable either at the board or the motor end, a broken cable or broken or loose pin in the connector. Or a failed motor. Or wrong cable configuration with leads swapped. If this happens, stop what the printer is doing immediately, let it cool down and power it off!<\/p>\n\n\n\n A broken wire on a stepper can easily destroy a driver chip by creating high voltage spikes as the stepper is connected and disconnected (the same damage can occur if you manually disconnect or reconnect a stepper motor while the printer is powered-up).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Didn’t find your specific 3D print issue in this guide? We have more guides here:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nDamaged PTFE Tube<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Bowden Tube Issues<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanations:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Extruder Not Primed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Incorrect Print Temperature<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n
Damaged, Dirty, or Poor Quality Filament<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Nozzle Is Too Close to the Bed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Worn-Out Drive Gear<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Incorrect Tension<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Extruder Motor and Feeder Issues<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Signs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Explanation:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
How to Fix:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\n